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#21 Which Way to Ride a Donkey

Between blue-gold Carnival flags and glowing Ramadan crescents, between protest and tranquillity—and the question of which way to ride a donkey.

© Superbass / CC-BY-SA-4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons) https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/ File:2025-03-01-Ramadan_-_Karneval-1676.jpg

Unknown, 17th century, uploaded by Michel Bakni, (via Wikimedia Commons) https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/ File:Nasreddin_in_miniature.jpg

Dear All,

As March comes to an end, so too does the most sacred month in Islam: Ramadan. Historically, Ramadan has been accompanied by diverse performative traditions, yet it remains distinct from the carnivalesque. It is not a month of ekstasis or subversion but of humility and introspection—not a time of metamorphosis, but of meditative focus, recentring oneself without being blinded by status or material possessions.

The festivities of Eid al-Fitr, which follow Ramadan, involve wearing fine clothes and savouring laboriously prepared dishes and sweets. Yet at its core, Eid is a celebration of reunion—a time to gather with family and loved ones in gratitude.

Today, it is important to mention that the world is fraught with chaos, and sadly, not all Muslims can experience the tranquillity and peace that Ramadan is meant to embody. As the Israel-Palestine conflict endures, in Türkiye—where I and over 1.5 million people in Germany originate from—the final days of Ramadan inevitably transform into a righteous mass protest for democracy and equality.

To honour Eid al-Fitr and the Turkish community in Cologne, we have selected Nasreddin Hoca as FOW and the Ramadan lights in Ehrenfeld as CC. In the spirit of unity and wit—enjoy!

CC: Ehrenfeld stands out as one of Cologne’s hippest districts, celebrated for its vibrant mix of diverse culinary offerings, street art, boutique gift shops, and thriving coffee culture. Beyond its trendy appeal, it serves as a true hub of multicultural coexistence—a place where people of different cultures and religions live harmoniously. This month, Ehrenfeld celebrates the second instalment of Ramadan Lights, with bright crescent moons illuminating both sides of the main street beneath the greeting "Ramadan Kareem." But this year, as WDR reported, things took a delightfully 'curious' turn. Ramadan collided with Carnival season—traditionally marked by streets decked in blue-and-gold flags for the parade. In a move so fitting for Cologne, organizers from both celebrations embraced the overlap: fifty-eight Carnival flags shared lampposts with lunar decorations. The curious juxtaposition continued with campaign posters from recent federal elections still clinging to the poles, completing this a spontaneous testament to Ehrenfeld's urban spirit. 

FOW: A figure straddling history and legend, Nasreddin Hoca reigns as one of the Islamic world’s most beloved folk heroes, blurring the lines between sage and fool. For centuries, his anecdotes have traversed borders, from Anatolia to the Balkans, the Middle East to China, adapting to cultures while retaining their sharp, questioning core of everyday practices—symbolized by him riding his donkey the wrong way around. The Hoca’s genius lies in his ability to cloak subversion in humour. He punctures hypocrisy, skewers rigid authority, and exposes the absurdities of human pretension. According to one anecdote, Hoca was riding his donkey backwards—as always—through town. "Hoca, you’re sitting the wrong way!" people laughed. "No," he replied, "it’s the donkey who’s backwards—I’m facing the right direction!"

In the hope that the world, too, finds its right direction, we wish you all a happy Eid al-Fitr—surrounded by loved ones, dressed in fine clothes, and savouring delicious food.

Warmest wishes

Enes Türkoğlu
on behalf of the Cologne Team 

News IFTR2025

04Jun

#31 Get your party and exhibition tickets!

Gerald Köhler has been working tirelessly with his students and our creative colleague Julie Willems to prepare the exhibition Hall of Fools / Hall of Fame. You can now buy tickets for the party at Herbrand's in the lively Ehrenfeld neighbourhood on Thursday evening. It starts at 7:30 p.m.

30Mai

#30 Travel Kit, Party and more!

Prepare for the wonderful, yet unknown adventure of travelling to Cologne - with a little help from our Fool of the Week, a Travel Kit and more!

16Apr

#24 »Festive Entanglements«. About our cultural program and keynote speaker

As we are presenting our second keynote speaker and open the curtains for recommended cultural program events, our Fool of the Week will note an important behavioural rule for your stay: although suggesting a culturally interwoven practice within our society, Germany has quite strict non-smoker protection laws; simply said, never smoke indoors and check whether the are designated smoker’s areas.

11Apr

#23 Keynote News, Bakeries and Poodles

While the remaining key-notes are going to be announced in the following weeks, read about German Bakeries, why they might be helpful during your stay, and meet our Fool of the Week: a poodle.

28Mär

#21 Which Way to Ride a Donkey

Between blue-gold Carnival flags and glowing Ramadan crescents, between protest and tranquillity—and the question of which way to ride a donkey.

14Mär

#19 About eating during Pentecost and the wonderful perspective of international exchanges

Carnival, Holi, Purim, Danshig Naadam-Khuree Tsam AND AND AND… In between our excitement for discovering transnational connections and honoring the importance of international exchange, we do not forget the public holiday accompanying the IFTR2025 – while the Pentecost will affect opening hours of stores, the city of Cologne will surely not let you hanging.

07Mär

#18 Cologne Carnival recap: Nubbels and politics

From straw-scapegoats that burn for our sins to political carnival. This week, the carnival in Cologne came to an end, but the newsletter will take you back on a short excursion into the student research assistants’ experience of the past days.

28Feb

#17 Carnival celebrations and intellectual dinosaurs

While you are reading this newsletter, Cologne’s carnival celebrations are in full swing. Read about the ecstatic traditions and how the TWS team brings carnival into the collection while still preparing for the conference.

14Feb

#15 Proverbs of Hell and German theatres

»A fool sees not the same tree that a wise man sees, « said William Blake (1757-1827) in the Proverbs of Hell in his seminal work The Marriage of Heaven and Hell (1790/93). Johnny Pitt's travelogue Afropean (2019), a search for traces of Afropean history throughout Europe, draws inspiration from this and can be an impetus for us to set out in search of other perspectives and to revive existing but often hidden connections.

31Jan

#13 A surrealistic clown and commuting in Cologne

While much has been said about navigating Cologne already, this time we will reflect on the best ways to reach the university campus and which ›Veedels‹ are in the closest proximity. In the meanwhile a surrealistic clown finds their way into our newsletter.

03Jan

#9 Happy New Year!

For News Years Eve, many in Cologne love to watch the fireworks from near the ›Hohenzollernbrücke‹ and the so-called »Schäl Sick«. Basil Crage's design of a champagne cannon for the set design company Hugo Baruch & Cie. invites us to raise our glasses and say »Frohes Neues Jahr« (Happy New Year)!

27Dez

#8 Fools’ Caps for the New Year

Between Christmas festivities and New Year's Eve, »zwischen den Jahren« (›between the years‹), as it is called in German, you may find some time to write an abstract, optionally while wearing a jester's cap. The deadline on 15 January is fast approaching. The magic of the fool's cap can also help anticipate the new year, whether anxiously, sentimentally, or cheerfully. In this sense, we wish you all a Happy New Year or »einen guten Rutsch« (›a good slide‹)!

20Dez

#7 Fool of the Week - »The Servant of Two Masters«

Although the Advent season is upon us, bringing a sense of »Vorfreude« for the upcoming events, we would nonetheless like to remind you of the importance of visa regulations. As »The Servant of Two Masters«, there is often a need to reach out to many different people and institutions for one and the same goal.

29Nov

#4 Our Fool of the Week Harlekin and the travel to the culturally vibrant Cologne

Cologne owes its development and cosmopolitanism to its easy accessibility. While arrival by ship has significantly lost importance, Cologne is equally well suited for air and train traffic. Arriving in Cologne, a culturally diverse and vibrant city you might wonder »Where am I supposed to go now?«, as our Fool of the Week does.

22Nov

#3 Fool of the Week – Scaramouche and Arlecchino

When you visit our wonderful Theatre Collection in Schloss Wahn (TWS), you will find two stone figures guarding our huge collection of Archivalia and lovely team. We present Scaramouche and Arlecchino, this week's protagonists.

15Nov

#2 Fool of the Week – Tünnes and Schäl

Our two Fools of the Week also happen to be Cologne Curiosities: Tünnes und Schäl are characters from the local puppet tradition, the Hänneschen Theatre. Meet the comic friend-foe couple there while you’re visiting Cologne!

08Nov

#1 Hello!

Get ready for IFTR 2024! With over 30 weeks to go, our team is hard at work preparing, and we’re excited to share weekly updates with you.